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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.